By Jessica Jenkins and Olga Querol, ATG Route Manager
Straddling the border between the Spanish regions of Aragon and Valencia, the Maestrazgo is one of the most remarkably well-preserved and least-visited parts of Spain. For the walker, this remote area in the province of Teruel with ancient paths, clean air and dramatic landscapes provides an increasingly rare escape from the hustle and bustle of modern life.
The Maestrazgo owes its name to the military orders of the Knights Templar and, later, the Order of Montesa, who ruled this region during the Middle Ages, leaving behind a remarkable architectural legacy of castles, towers and fortresses that still dominate the landscape. Walking between the towns of Iglesuela del Cid and Morella you’ll travel through a landscape that has changed little in five centuries.
Setting out from Iglesuela del Cid, a beautiful stone village perched on a promontory at over 1,200 metres above sea level with its Templar tower, the Torre de los Nublos, and the elegant arcaded Plaza Mayor, ancient tracks lead south-west through open limestone country to Cantavieja, the region’s capital. Its main square, with its porticoed character, is considered one of the most beautiful in all of Aragon, and the views from the town’s rocky promontory over the surrounding valleys are extraordinary.
Walking south brings you to Mirambel, arguably the jewel of the entire route. The Portal de las Monjas, the old entrance to the town wall, is notable for its beautiful latticework of mud and plaster, and the route through the town is dotted with impressive mansions, hermitages and stone houses.
From Mirambel, the path descends through fragrant scrubland and river valleys to Forcall, a village with a rich cultural heritage including an 18th-century parish church and the 16th-century Osset-Miró palace.
The final stage to Morella is perhaps the most dramatic. Situated on a hill at around 1,000 metres with views of the surrounding Maestrazgo mountain range, the town, a designated UNESCO World Heritage site, is encircled by 14th century medieval walls and crowned by its impressive castle.
The Maestrazgo is a territory where paths are quiet, villages are unhurried, and the welcome is warm and genuine. For those seeking a walking experience that combines history, landscape and authentic rural Spain in equal measure, the Maestrazgo remains a secret well worth discovering.
