Ancient Paths to Rome II: Volcanic Landscapes – Independent
Volcanic Landscapes is the second section of ATG’s Ancient Paths to Rome trip. This is a 225-mile independent walking route in three sections, each very different in character, which can be walked in week-long stages of about 70 miles each, or as a full 225-mile walk in three weeks. Sections 1 and 3 are Tuscan Hills and Approach to Rome.
This second stage from Montalcino to Viterbo takes you through southern Tuscany and into Lazio, a fascinating and diverse progression across open rolling hills and through vineyards, along the Roman Via Cassia, through forests and to the ancient volcanic crater of Lake Bolsena. Finish with a final leg along the best-preserved section of the Roman road north of Rome, to the walled city of Viterbo.
Spring is prime time for flowers and birds. Swimming is best from the summer through to the autumn when the waters of Lake Bolsena are at their warmest, although the open-air hot springs near Viterbo are a lovely temperature all year round.
Duration: 9 days
Itinerary
Time to explore Montalcino, centre of Brunello wine production. Hotel with pool and panoramic views.
Inhabited since Etruscan times, this little medieval town boasts a spectacular location and a splendid fortress. A friendly and welcoming town, with some attractive shops and bars, and home of one of Italy’s most famous and finest wines – Brunello di Montalcino. Montalcino’s sacred art museum is very highly rated by all who visit.
Superb views and small pool in summer
Walk through the vineyards of Brunello to the superb Romanesque abbey-church of Sant’Antimo, built of alabaster and onyx. Then on to the Orcia Valley and Bagno Vignoni, with its Roman thermal baths in the central piazza (11.2 or 14.1 miles, 5.5 or 7 hours).
The central piazza of this picturesque town is a thermal pool where Romans rested and bathed en route north along the Via Cassia. Today you are not allowed to bathe here but you can take the waters in the nearby springs. The Renaissance arcaded area at the near end was built by the Medici who, like the Romans and Catherine of Siena before them, took the sulphur cure here.
Modern hotel overlooking Roman baths
Follow farm tracks leading towards the hilltop town of Castiglione d’Orcia, dominated by the imposing Rocca Aldobrandesca. Continue along strade bianche (gravel tracks) through quiet countryside, before reaching our charming B&B, set in a beautifully restored 8th-century palace in the medieval village of Campiglia d'Orcia, perched upon a rocky outcrop. (9.5 miles / 4.5-5 hours)
Campiglia d'Orcia, located close to the Via Francigena, the ancient road to Rome, dates back to 973 and was home to the Visconti family. This small medieval town has a very distinctive conical shape and at the top you'll find the tower and remains of the ruined castle, known as Rocca Visconti. Enjoy a wander through medieval streets and wonderful views over the Val d'Orcia.
Charming and welcoming B&B in historic centre
Walk through ancient chestnut and beech forests on the volcanic slopes of Monte Amiata before descending to the medieval town of Abbadia San Salvatore, with its 8th-century abbey. Continue on to Piancastagnaio, a hillside town with panoramic views, and stay overnight in a restored convent (11.8 miles / 6 hours).
Meaning ‘Castle on the chestnut plain’, this town of twisting streets rises on the slopes of Monte Amiata. It grew around the Rocca Aldobrandesca, a solid fortress built to watch over the valley of the Paglia river. Aside from the impressive fortress there are also a number of interesting churches.
Beautifully restored convent with pool and gardens
Tracks along low ridges with long views bring you to the ancient town of Proceno, from where you descend to the Serlate Valley before walking up to the town of Acquapendente, with its fine square and waterfalls (17.6 miles, 7.5-8 hours). Comfortable 3-star hotel.
A small, unpretentious market town, little visited by tourists and named after its former cascades that flowed into Paglia, a tributary of the Tiber. It stands on a volcanic table sloping steeply down to the Paglia and was on the pilgrim’s route from the north to Rome. The most significant site here is the Basilica of San Sepolcro and its substantial crypt. The city museum is also well worth a visit. Just beyond the town is the Monte Rufeno Nature Reserve with its Flower Museum and a variety of wildlife.
Friendly, refurbished hotel with family-run restaurant
Pass through open farmland, rural lanes and tracks via the small town of San Lorenzo Nuovo, enjoying wide views of Lake Bolsena, before descending to the town and your lakeside hotel (14.9 miles, 7-8 hours).
Friendly and welcoming, this is an attractive lakeside town of medieval alleyways and narrow cobbled streets that has been popular as a resort since Roman times. It has a well-preserved 14th century castle, with a museum and some interesting churches. The church of Santa Cristina boasts some fascinating catacombs. There are swimming opportunities in the lake or relax lakeside in one of the many bars.
Modern hotel close to lake
Ancient paths with lake views lead to panoramic Montefiascone, surmounted by a fortress. Amongst its fine churches is that of San Flaviano, which houses the tomb of the bishop whose visit to the town is famously commemorated in the name of its wine: Est! Est!! Est!!! (11.1 miles, 5.5 hours). 3-star accommodation in the historic centre.
Clinging to the rim of an old volcanic crater, Montefiascone dates back to the Etruscans. Notable for its 17th century cathedral which dominates the skyline and the renowned white wine called Est! Est!! Est!!!
In historic centre, terrace with panoramic views
Following one of the finest sections of paved Roman road in Italy, cross a plateau, pausing to enjoy Roman baths and thermal springs on the ancient route, before continuing to the walled city of Viterbo (11.4 miles, 5.5 hours). Boutique, 4-star hotel in the centre.
Something of a rival to Rome during the 13th century, this medieval town houses several grand palaces and churches. Our optional city walk gives you a flavour for most parts of the city and places of interest, finishing at the archaeological museum, exhibiting fine Roman pottery and Etruscan artefacts. There are a number of good restaurants here offering from modern fare to traditional specialities.
Boutique hotel in central location
Trip Planner
Walking & Terrain
Walking: Moderate to Challenging. The length of each day varies from 4.5 hours to a maximum of 8 hours walking. Hours of walking, which may vary from individual to individual, means hours of actual walking and does not include stops for lunch, sightseeing, rests or siestas. The walking is reasonably demanding as there are no rest days built into the itinerary.
Terrain: Dirt roads, farm tracks, wooded paths, broad gravel and cart tracks. For those planning an autumn trip, be prepared to cross one or two roughly ploughed fields. Terrain may be more rugged at times so please make sure that your footwear provides sufficient ankle support. There are some steep ascents but no vertiginous sections.
Volcanic Landscapes is the second section of ATG's Ancient Paths to Rome making up a total of 225 Miles. If you plan to walk all three sections (including Tuscan Hills and Approach to Rome) we would rate the walking as challenging due to the sheer volume of walking and we would recommend rest sections between each weeklong itinerary.
All ATG trips include facilities and options so that you can arrange to walk as much or as little as you like – or not at all - and your Route Manager will be able to advise you on public transport or taxi options.
Walking & Terrain
Walking: Moderate to Challenging. The length of each day varies from 4.5 hours to a maximum of 8 hours walking. Hours of walking, which may vary from individual to individual, means hours of actual walking and does not include stops for lunch, sightseeing, rests or siestas. The walking is reasonably demanding as there are no rest days built into the itinerary.
Terrain: Dirt roads, farm tracks, wooded paths, broad gravel and cart tracks. For those planning an autumn trip, be prepared to cross one or two roughly ploughed fields. Terrain may be more rugged at times so please make sure that your footwear provides sufficient ankle support. There are some steep ascents but no vertiginous sections.
Volcanic Landscapes is the second section of ATG's Ancient Paths to Rome making up a total of 225 Miles. If you plan to walk all three sections (including Tuscan Hills and Approach to Rome) we would rate the walking as challenging due to the sheer volume of walking and we would recommend rest sections between each weeklong itinerary.
All ATG trips include facilities and options so that you can arrange to walk as much or as little as you like – or not at all - and your Route Manager will be able to advise you on public transport or taxi options.
Additional activities available locally
This is a wonderful area offering additional local experiences - some can be booked to fit in with the itinerary, whilst for others you may wish to customise your trip to have an extra leisurely day or two to enjoy.
Additional activities are paid for locally and can be booked via your Route Manager who will contact you 2 weeks prior to departure with the exception of the thermal baths in Viterbo which should be booked in advance via the ATG office.
Wine Tasting in Montalcino, prices from 40€/person
Bike Hire in Bolsena (prices vary)
Boat trips in Bolsena, around the lake (prices vary)
Wine Tasting in Montefiascone from 20-40€/person
Thermal baths in Viterbo, costs up to 25€/person with the option to book additional spa treatments
Chestnut harvest feast and typical lunch near Viterbo for 70€/person (minimum 2) including transfers from/to Viterbo (available on Sundays in October)
Italian lessons in Bolsena, Montefiascone and Viterbo, costing from 20€/person depending on the length of the lesson.
Your Personal ATG Route Manager
I grew up in Poland and have had the wonderful opportunity to study and work in Italy. Since 2018, I’ve been part of ATG and, right now, I’m enjoying life in beautiful Tuscany! What I love most about my job is the chance to explore so many amazing parts of Italy including hidden gems that aren’t typically on tourists’ radar. It really feels special to experience the authentic charm of Tuscany with its rolling hills, vineyards and picturesque countryside and I look forward to welcoming you.
"Monika is excellent and goes above and beyond expectations. We can't praise her highly enough."
Route Book
The ATG Route Book is a detailed, day-to-day guide. The book anticipates your needs with easy-to-follow instructions, maps, plans and other information that will guide you to discover the best that the area has to offer and is the key to the success of an independent holiday with us.
Walking App
Your Route Manager can provide you with a link to download an app to your smartphone. This app provides the GPS track for your route on your phone. You can use this digital support to find your position and navigate the route, even without an internet connection or mobile phone reception.
Accommodation & Meals
You can expect each hotel to be one of the most characteristic, comfortable and best located for travellers on foot, with the character and sometimes the standard varying from place to place. In more remote areas hotels may be of a generally lower standard in relation to their ‘star ratings’.
Single travellers are accommodated in double rooms for single occupancy for a supplemental charge.
Breakfast is included and there are suggestions in the Route Book about where to buy provisions for a picnic lunch, as well as restaurant recommendations. Dining options often include a choice of restaurants that can be pre-booked for you by your Route Manager.
Food & Wine
Expect an everchanging feast, starting with the simple but flavourful tastes of Tuscany. Although the Tuscans are called ‘bean eaters’ (mangiafagioli) the main staple of their diet, apart from pasta, is bread. Meat and game also feature strongly, preferably cooked on an open fire. Move on to the spicier flavours of the more southerly region of Lazio with the subtle influences of Umbria. As you walk past the volcanic lakes the menus teem with freshwater fish including corregone (whitefish), trout and eels. There are superb local red wines, notably Brunello di Montalcino and Vino Nobile di Montepulciano, which complement Tuscan cuisine very well. Further south, enjoy the famous Orvieto Classico from Orvieto and Est! Est!! Est!!! from Montefiascone. Read the story behind this strangely named wine in the Route Book, which contains a section on the cuisine and wines of the region, and a list of recommended restaurants en route. The Route Manager will be pleased to help you with any queries, requests or advice.
History
There is evidence of prehistoric settlement in the area. Later this region was the centre of Etruscan civilisation, with Orvieto an important city of the Etruscan Federation (known as Volsinii) until it was invaded by the Romans. Its inhabitants then settled at Bolsena. Roman invasions and colonisations from the 2nd century BC led subsequently to the diminished importance of these towns, until the Middle Ages, when they became strongholds in Guelph-Ghibelline wars and other disputes or came to be of religious importance. Orvieto and Bolsena were both great centres of pilgrimage in the Middle Ages following a miracle (1264) when a Czech priest was stained by real blood while serving Mass here. It is still commemorated today with special celebrations, usually in June, around Corpus Christi Day. The Route Book provides a detailed account of the history of the region.
Flora & Fauna
Thickly forested hills and scrub, interspersed with open land given over to viticulture, cereals and grazing characterise this region. Oaks, chestnut and beech intermingle with acacia (with its white scented blossoms), wild cherry, whitethorn, honeysuckle, wild roses and broom, whilst in the clearings and meadows are marjoram, fennel, catmint, rosemary, sage and lemon balm, all of which combine to produce the heady fragrance for which the hills are renowned. There are wonderful carpets of cyclamen in the spring and autumn in the woods, plus good wild flowers in spring, poppies in May/June and sunflowers in July. There is also good bird watching to be done on this trip, particularly the great red warbler in Bolsena around the lake. Hoopoes and bee-eaters are often spotted in the summer months. There are also many butterflies. Our Route Book provides further detail while apps such as ‘LeafSnap’, ‘Flora Incognita’, ‘ChirpOMatic’ and child-friendly ‘Seek by iNaturalist’ can identify the flora and fauna en route.
Travel Arrangements
Travel arrangements, including flights, for ATG Independent Footloose trips should be made independently.
Outward travel to Montalcino: From Florence or Pisa airports, take the shuttle to the central station, then catch a train (indirect via Siena or Empoli) to Buonconvento. From Buonconvento you can then either take a bus or a taxi to Montalcino.
From Rome airports the journey is longer and more difficult – travel from the airport to Roma Termini station and then take the train to Buonconvento either via Grosseto (one change with second leg by bus) or via Chiusi-Chianciano Terme and Siena (two changes).
Return travel from Viterbo: There are two train stations in Viterbo. There are trains to Rome from Viterbo Porta Romana station, while trains to Pisa and Florence depart from Viterbo Porta Fiorentina. Rome is closest, with train journeys taking around 2-3 hours. Train journeys to Florence take around 3.5 to 4.5 hours while Pisa is farthest, taking 5-7 hours with several changes.
Trip Options & Prices
Overview
This 9 day independent walking tour in Italy starting in the medieval hilltop town of Montalcino, Tuscany takes you south into Lazio. Keen walkers will enjoy 7 days of dedicated walking, exploring the volcanic landscapes of this lesser known part of central Italy.
Itinerary
Day 1: Arrive in Montalcino
Day 2: Montalcino to Bagno Vignoni
Day 3: Bagno Vignoni to Campiglia d'Orcia
Day 4: Campiglia d'Orcia to Piancastagnaio
Day 5: Piancastagnaio to Acquapendente
Day 6: Acquapendente to Bolsena
Day 7: Bolsena to Montefiascone
Day 8: Montefiascone to Viterbo
Day 9: Departure
Prices (per person)
Our Independent Footloose itineraries have the flexibility to be customised if you would like to spend more time in any of the places en route; perhaps to incorporate some of the add-ons available locally or just to create a more relaxed pace to your holiday.
If you wish to build your own itinerary please complete our customise form and our Sales team will provide you with a bespoke quote.
Frequently Asked Questions
On each route there is an ATG Route Manager, who is there to take care of all the practicalities and ensure the success of your trip. Route Managers have all been ATG-trained, speak English and the language of the country fluently, and live in the local area. Your Route Manager will make contact with you a couple of weeks prior to departure (usually by email) and will then meet you at the start of your trip and will be available during your trip to move your luggage from hotel to hotel, provide local information, make restaurant reservations and do everything possible to ensure that you derive maximum enjoyment from your holiday.
Please let us know about any dietary restrictions or allergies in advance so that our Route Manager can ensure that you are catered for during your holiday. Most dietary restrictions do not present a problem on our trips and the Route Manager can discuss your requirements in more detail with you at the start of your trip.
The walks are graded according to difficulty but you can walk as much or as little as you like.
Easy: walking along well-established paths and tracks with some short ascents/descents. These trips are suitable for most people who enjoy occasional exercise.
Easy to Moderate: walking along well-established paths and tracks. Occasional loose (gravel) surfaces. Ascents/descents up to 1 hour. These trips are suitable for most people who have a reasonable level of fitness.
Moderate: walking along a variety of paths and tracks. Occasional uneven areas. Ascents/descents 1-2 hours. These trips are suitable for those who have a reasonable to good level of fitness.
Moderate to Challenging: walking along varied paths and surfaces, occasionally challenging, with ascents/descents of 2-3 hours. These trips are suitable for more experienced walkers who have a good level of fitness.
If you are planning to take an Independent trip as a single traveller, we would ask you to consider the potential dangers of walking alone before making a booking and if necessary discuss this with our Sales team.
Single travellers will be booked into a double room which will carry a single occupancy supplement.
Flights are not included in the price of your ATG holiday and should be booked independently.
The trips in our Independent programme make ideal family holidays for those with children who are old enough (and keen enough!) to enjoy a walking holiday or young enough to be carried in a backpack.
You would need to consider costs for lunches (either a picnic style lunch or lunch in a café as you prefer) and evening meals. Where an evening meal is included at a hotel this is indicated on the trip page. For evening meals not included, the route book provides restaurant recommendations to suit a wide range of budgets. You would also need to factor in any entrance fees to museums, churches, galleries and other sightseeing costs, items of a personal nature, shopping expenditure and transport if you choose to not to walk on some days.
Tourist Tax
This tax is charged per guest per night and the rate is determined by the local council based on the star rating of the accommodation. The rate usually varies from €2 up to €5 per person per night, although the rate can be higher in major cities. This tax is not included in the price of your holiday but where applicable will be payable direct to your hotel in cash.
We are delighted to book extensions for you at either end of your trip. We only book hotels with which we have an established relationship and where we can ensure a high level of service and enjoyment. If you would like an extension hotel booking please indicate this during the booking process and we will contact you with pricing information.
ATG does not provide any form of insurance cover. However, it is a condition of booking that you have fully comprehensive insurance cover, including:
Cancellation/curtailment up to the cost of the holiday (preferably including flights)
Medical emergencies and repatriation
Travel delay / missed departure
Lost or stolen personal belongings
Personal liability
Legal expenses
Natural Disasters
Although most credit card companies offer travel insurance as something that is included when paying the balance with the card, it may be advisable to check that the cover offered is what you expect it to be. Very few companies include cancellation and curtailment or medical expenses. Whatever the insurance policy you have taken out, please read the documentation carefully. Please ensure also that you take it with you on your trip and refer to it in the case of any claim or emergency.
Yes, please click here for what to bring. A packing checklist is also included with your booking confirmation.
Sustainability
ATG was founded on principles of conservation and sustainable development. It was the first company to win the tourism industry’s two top awards: Tourism for Tomorrow (UK) and the World Legacy Award (National Geographic and Conservation International USA) and also the first to have an accredited Environmental Management System.
Everyone who walks with ATG contributes to the ATG Trust, which funds projects that benefit local communities in the regions visited. By supporting these initiatives, ATG promotes sustainable tourism. Past projects have included heritage restoration projects, environmental conservation and educational projects.
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