By Jessica Jenkins and Paula Reis
To the east of the elegant resort town of Cascais with its historic centre, fishing harbour, beaches and seafront promenades, lies the Portuguese Riviera with its sandy beaches and calm sea waters, but head north out of Cascais and the stretch of coastline leading to Praia Grande is characterised by powerful waves, strong breezes and dramatic natural scenery.
The coastal route from Cascais to Praia Grande covers approximately 20 miles and offers walkers one of the most rewarding and varied coastal experiences in Portugal, and is only a short distance from Lisbon by train. The route passes through the Sintra-Cascais Natural Park, a protected area of outstanding natural beauty that stretches along much of this length of Atlantic coastline. The combination of cliff scenery, wild beaches and diverse flora makes this one of the finest coastal walks in western Europe.
Following the coastline from Cascais to Praia do Guincho, walkers pass the Boca do Inferno, a sea arch and chasm carved into the cliffs by centuries of Atlantic erosion. The path continues past the lighthouse at Cabo Raso before reaching Guincho, a vast beach of fine sand backed by dunes and the natural park. Guincho beach is renowned for its powerful waves and strong winds, making it a favoured destination for surfers, windsurfers and kitesurfers, so walkers should be prepared for exposed conditions along this section.
There’s a small visitor centre here which provides information about the dune system and its natural importance. The dunes cover an area of 66 hectares on the edge of the Sintra-Cascais Natural park and wooden walkways have been constructed which allow visitors to observe native flora without impacting the sensitive eco-system of the dunes.
North of Guincho you’ll pass through the National forest with fragrant pine and eucalyptus woodland with the opportunity to detour inland to climb up to the Convento dos Capuchos founded in 1560 and the Peninha Santuário, which at 488m above sea level offers panoramic views out over the Atlantic Ocean.
Heading further north you continue along coastal paths into wilder and more remote terrain. This section of the walk is the most demanding but also the most scenically rewarding, with expansive views north and south along the Atlantic coastline from the Cabo de Roca, the most westerly point of mainland Europe. The cliffs are high and dramatic, and you’ll pass beaches below, including the spectacular Praia da Ursa and other secret beaches, accessible only on foot via very steep paths, before reaching Praia Grande, a wide sandy beach and popular surfing destination.
Stepping away from the coast, you’ll find Colares and a quietly distinguished wine culture where they preserve centuries of winemaking tradition. Colares has an unusual terroir, producing wines from vines grown in the sandy Atlantic soils. It was this sandy soil which protected the vines from phylloxera which devasted vineyards across Europe in 19th century.
A little further inland is the picturesque town of Sintra, set against the wooded hills of the Serra. Here you can visit the Moorish castle, royal palaces and lush gardens, including the Pena Palace, a 19th century Romanticist palace, the Sintra National Palace and, just a few kilometers outside Sintra, Monserrate Palace with its Arabian inspired architecture. Or enjoy a wander around the colourful historic centre with shops, cafes and restaurants, and try their most celebrated sweet treats – the travesseiros and queijadas, traditional pastries that have been delighting visitors for generations.
