Paddling into History: The Dordogne River

Michela Thomann, Route Manager in the Dordogne, takes us on a journey canoeing down the Dordogne River (an optional part of our Classic Dordogne Walking Holidays).

Although, arguably, the ‘best way to see the world is on foot’, much is to be said for a well-deserved day/half-day expedition where you can let your tired feet rest in a canoe or single person kayak as you watch the dramatic landscapes float past you.

With several hop-on/hop-off options, it’s a refreshing and enriching way to explore the ATG itinerary on the Classic Dordogne route. Indeed, some of the finest views of the region are best enjoyed from the majestic yet tranquil Dordogne River, gently meandering through rich medieval history. Come equipped with a baguette, some local duck pâté and maybe a traditional walnut cake, pack it all up in the waterproof containers together with your camera and climb onboard. The steady current assures an ‘easy day at the office’, whilst you’ll still have enough time to establish what an efficient paddling pattern looks like. The aquatic reflections of the green oak forests give way to little pebble beaches dotting the river making for great swimming stops if you fancy getting more than your feet wet, or enjoying your picnic on the dry.

But all is not idyllic; you are floating towards some serious history: During the Hundred Years War, the Dordogne River marked the frontline border between England and France and saw many a battle being fought over it. The fortified eagles nest castles built on top of intriguing natural rock formations in strategically important locations on either side of the river are a testimony to this troubled past.

Snuggling up to the steep rock faces lining the river banks you pass ‘La Roque-Gageac’, awarded ‘the most beautiful village of France’ title a few years ago, where you can easily park up the canoe for a while and go explore on foot. Once an active port trading wine, iron, timber and foods, the village seems to be cut directly from the limestone cliff, and its 14th century church blurs the line between architecture and natural landscape as it extends the rock on which it stands.

Back on the water, let yourself be carried further back in time as you drift on towards ‘Chateau Castelnaud’, towering high above the left bank of the river and conquered no less than five times by the English during the war. It houses a remarkable Medieval Warfare Museum with an extensive collection of weapons, armours and large war machinery, as well as exciting panorama views. You can either terminate your canoe trip here and walk the final two hours, or just temporarily tie up your floats to climb up to the castle before continuing your trip downstream.

Chateau de Castlelnaud

It’s only a few gentle bends further that painters and photographers alike stand in awe as the golden luminosity of the limestone walls of the crag-top ‘Chateau de Beynac’, perched 150 meters above the right bank of the river is reflected in the water. Known by the locals as ‘Satan’s Ark’, due to the renowned cruelty of its barons in the 12th century, this imposing display of power and authority marked one of the strongholds of the French camp during the Hundred Years War, impossible for the English to capture due to its natural defences (although the castle did pass briefly to Richard the Lionheart). If you don’t feel disencouraged by the steep 10 minute climb, Beynac’s impressive doors stand wide open to you.

Chateau Beynac, Dordogne

You may, however, prefer to let your rich day of activities culminate in a visit to the romantic and intricately sculpted gardens of Marqueyssac, again in the domaine of a Chateau that has been in the hands of the same family for the past 300 years. The thousands of sculpted boxwood plants make for a dreamy and surreal landscape where it comes as no surprise that graceful peacocks wander around freely. Just the right setting to enjoy delicious home-made ice-cream or apéritif before embarking on the final stretch to your own chateau for the night, Chateau Monrecour (superior option of trip). What a day!

Our walking & cycling holidays on the Classic Dordogne route include:

Footloose (self guided walking holidays)
Classic Dordogne

Escorted Walking Holidays
Classic Dordogne

Freewheeling (cycling holidays)
Please note freewheeling clients can only do canoeing if they add a second night in Domme.
Classic Dordogne